Extra, Extra, ReadAllAboutIt! Capo’s Now Open in North Beach!

Say that in, like, one of those Dick Tracy Chicago gangster accents to get the full gist of what’s happening in that sentence, y’shee. Capo’s is the newest gig from world champion pizza tosser Tony Gemignani of Tony’s Pizza Napolitana, one of the famous SF pizza joints (also the owner of Pyzano’s in Castro Valley). This time he’s gone old school with Capo’s — red patent leather booths, brick walls, and mood lighting chandeliers. And a specialization in Chicago-style deep dish pizza. I can dig it.

I really liked this place. It’s busy. There’s a very nice, posh bar. The booths are plush as shit. The menu is awesome and a bit quirky for a pizza place. The wait staff is courteous and attentive. The food is fattening and delicious.

What was surprising to me was the portion sizes. They’re immense. Not chic SF style at all. But not unwelcome either, except to my unsuspecting belly. We ordered two appetizers and one 13″ deep dish to share between four people. We asked the waiter if that was enough food and he replied emphatically, “oh yeah”. Which alarmed us a bit. Then they brought unsolicited soup, Banchero’s style. It was welcome and yummy. Then our appetizers came.

The first appetizer to arrive was the baked artichokes. I didn’t really read on the menu where it said “in spinach and provolone cream”, which is mostly what it was. It was basically artichoke dip. I kinda wished they’d just said that on the menu. But it was still delicious. I think it probably took two years off my life, and my arteries were screaming in horror, but I just laughed and ate. Delicious.

Next arrived our garlic bread with mozzarella cheese. Which I thought would be a paltry few slices of lightly-cheesed bread. Cue comically surprised expression. It was more like a whole loaf worth of bread with a pound of cheese on it. It was amazing and ridiculous. And amazingly ridiculous when slathered in the aforementioned artichoke dip. Double heart attack challenge: accepted.

Last, but not least, was our pizza. We ordered the Frank Nitti, though we didn’t get the reference. It was only 13″ diameter, but it weighed as much as a bowling ball. And it felt relatively similar to that in your stomach. I was not terribly hungry when we arrived (idiot). I ate two helpings of soup and our all-carb appetizers. I could not even get through my one slice of five-pound pizza. It was ridiculous. And good. And ridiculous.

Overall, I loved the place. The pizza wasn’t as good as Little Star, imho, but the menu was a good enough rival and the atmosphere was better. Also, Capo’s is like four blocks from my house and Little Star (either one) is way across town. So. I will take some Capo’s anytime.

Side notes: I want to try the thin crust next time. And, if you’re going, they only take cash. Come prepared or use their ATM machine.

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